Banh Mizza pizza at Spirit. (John Colombo/For the Post-Gazette)
Chicory Salad served on the patio at Spirit. (John Colombo/For the Post-Gazette)
In 2015, Tom Barr, Leigh Yock and a cadre of compatriots (the Spirit “family” holiday stockings range the length of the beautiful bar in the downstairs lodge) took an old Upper Lawrenceville Moose Lodge and turned it into an of-the-now hangout for contemporary Pittsburgh nightlife culture.
Spirit might be best known as an entertainment venue, but its roots are as culinary as they are celebratory. Barr, who also serves as the primary chef of the venue, cut his teeth at the acclaimed pizza and more restaurant Roberta’s in Brooklyn and former Pizza Boat chef Jeff Ryan (also of Roberta’s) helped launch Spirit’s Slice Island kitchen.
“One word that came to my mind was that we’re a bit of a chameleon. Because we do so many things at Spirit, it allows us to be creative in our offerings, more so than a typical restaurant,” Barr says.
This means that, in addition to Spirit’s everyday pizza-centered menu, special meals such as a multi-course New Year’s Eve dinner, St. Patrick’s Day feast and even an occasional spaghetti disco complete with free servings of spaghetti and meatballs at midnight, are part of the mix.
“It’s comfortable. It’s not like a normal restaurant but it’s not a dive bar. It’s the perfect in-between,” Barr says.
Sure, Spirit is hip, but its core is infused with the essence of the social clubs and gathering spots that preceded it, including nearby, now-closed Nied’s Hotel. Barr’s maternal great-grandfather was an officer at the Lawrenceville Moose, and his paternal grandfather, Joseph M. Barr, served as mayor of Pittsburgh from 1959-1970.
Spirit added a large, all-weather tent in 2021, which now serves as the space’s de facto dining room. That means that even when the upstairs and downstairs areas are busy with concerts and dance parties, there’s always somewhere to eat. (The whole menu is available in the downstairs space during many events and on regular bar nights, too.)
In a city devoid of late-night and Monday dining options, having a menu available until 11 p.m. Mondays and slices served until midnight on weekends is a boon. Spirit’s menu is one of Pittsburgh’s most vegetarian- and vegan-friendly in Pittsburgh
The order: It’s never a bad idea to get a pizza, which, as Barr says, “is continually and will always be a work in progress.”
In its early days, thin-ish tray pizzas were the primary offering from the kitchen. Later, the acquisition of an electric PizzaMaster oven allowed for the addition of 12-inch neo-Neapolitan round pies and started working with a sourdough starter. Now, Grandma-style trays and a refined version of the round styles are offered, and the mozzarella cheese is pulled in-house.
Classic pizza toppings such as pepperoni, pickled peppers and anchovies are available on customizable pies. But the kitchen also gets pretty bold with excellent non-traditional permutations such as Banh Mizza, a vegan pie with barbecue seitan, candied jalapeno, Sriracha-lime veganaise, pickled vegetables and cilantro. Spirit leans heavily into the local agricultural community, and those ties are reflected on the pizzas during the growing season.
Don’t overlook Spirit’s salads. They’re layered and thoughtfully composed, with attention paid to seasonality and texture. Even in the depth of winter, locally grown chicory shined when paired with orange segments, pickled fennel, spicy pepitas, currants soaked in the Pittsburgh-imported amero Super Punch and a citrus-black garlic vinaigrette. Bar-friendly food such as wings, artichokes and fried potatoes round out the menu, and there often are specials, too. .
Spirit’s bar program is robust, blending specialty cocktails, corner bar friendliness and high-volume-club efficiency.
Join him for one delicious night of food and music.
Gary Miller / Getty Images
Willie Nelson hosted his first Luck Reunion in 2012, welcoming a handful of ultra-lucky guests to his ranch near Austin, Texas, for a low-key gathering heavy on music and camaraderie. The iconic singer has just announced the events that will accompany this year’s 11th annual Luck Reunion, and if you’ve ever wanted to be one of Willie’s dinner guests, this is your chance.
On Wednesday, March 15, the ranch is opening its doors for Luck Presents: Potluck 2023 - Three Sisters, which features a slate of chefs and a carefully curated menu that celebrates the three crops most prominently featured in Indigenous cuisine.
Climbing beans, maize, and squash will be highlighted in the meals prepared by chefs Crystal Wahpepah, a member of the Kickapoo Nation who runs Oakland, California's Wahpepah's Kitchen; and Brit Reed and Sewa Yuli of I-Collective, a non-profit organization that emphasizes indigenous communities' historical contributions in the food space, while showcasing their current innovations.
Fewer than 300 guests will be seated for the "Three Sisters" meal, and after everyone has finished their final course, Nelson will take the stage for an intimate performance. The proceeds will benefit the Luck Family Foundation, which in turn makes contributions to Farm Aid, The Texas Food & Wine Alliance, and Wholesome Wave.
Unsurprisingly, only a handful of single seats are available ($750), which can be purchased through the Luck Reunion website. The VIP tables for eight guests ($7,500) and half-tables for four guests ($4,000) are sold out, but you can sign up to be added to the waitlist.
If you can't get into Willie's backyard Potluck, you could always head about 330 miles north to visit Reba McEntire's new restaurant. In January, country music's other iconic redhead partnered with the Choctaw Nation to open Reba's Place in Atoka, Oklahoma. Its menu is heavy on comfort food — think cornbread, country-fried steaks, and smashed potatoes — and of course, there will be music.
"We wanted music — on a small stage. Not big bands. Not big loud," McEntire told People. "It's going to be something that people can remain eating, visiting, while the music's going on. I will go in and do some music, singing, absolutely. It has to be friendly."
Seeing Willie Nelson and Reba McEntire are two solid entries for anyone's bucket list — imagine if you could cross them both off this year.
Macronutrients are the nutrients we need in larger quantities that provide our bodies with the energy they need throughout the day. This includes fats, proteins, and carbohydrates. Micronutrients, on the other hand, are mostly vitamins and minerals. While they are equally as important as macronutrients, micronutrients are consumed in very small amounts. Macronutrients in foods are transformed into cellular energy, which is used to perform cellular work. Metabolism transforms macronutrient matters into substances a cell can use to grow and reproduce. So, eating the right macronutrients can help speed up your metabolism, thus speeding up the weight loss process. And, the best way to get macronutrients in your diet is to eat them first thing in the morning for breakfast. If you skip breakfast, you might end up consuming more calories later on in the day.
That’s why the macro diet is ideal. A balance of carbs, fat, and proteins, the macro diet is full of nutritious, diet-friendly meals. We spoke with Edibel Quintero, MD and medical advisor at HealthInsider, Dr. Carrie Lam, MD, and Trista Best, a dietitian for Balance One Supplements. They agree that the most important macro to eat for breakfast to speed up your metabolism is sweetpotatoes. Find out more below!
Sweet potatoes
Sweet potatoes are one of the most nutritionally dense macronutrients you could include in your breakfast while working towards weight loss. They are rich in fiber, vitamin A, and vitamin C. A metabolism-boosting carb, adding sweet potatoes to your breakfast will provide you with a consistent boost of energy you need to take on your day. They not only keep you full for the rest of the day but they also help you stay awake after your meal.
"Sweet potatoes can be described as slow carbs, abundant in fiber, nutrients, and antioxidants," Quintero explains. "Furthermore, it's the perfect choice for people with insulin resistance since it helps in stabilizing blood sugar levels."
More processed or simple carbs like white bread and white rice are quickly broken down in the body and only offer a short spike of energy that quickly dies out. This can leave you feeling lethargic afterward. Sweet potatoes, on the other hand, are slow-processed carbs that can help maintain your insulin levels so your blood sugar does not crash as quickly. "The spike in your blood sugar levels ends with an even bigger crash, which causes exhaustion and fatigue," Lam notes.
We know that carbs have gained a bad reputation in recent years. But, this is because certain variations only provide empty calories. Chips, cereal, white bread, and even instant oatmeal packets are all processed. They are all calorically-dense carbs. While they may taste delicious, they will fail to provide your body with any sustainable energy for the rest of the day.
Instead, substituting your white toast for sweet potatoes can help nourish your body and make good use of the calories you're consuming. That way you won't feel hungry or lethargic shortly after finishing your breakfast. Lam even suggests increasing your carb intake at night.
"Your intake of carbs in the morning should be reduced; it should be moderate during the day, and high in the evening. A high carb intake decreases cortisol levels and vice versa. A high carb intake also stimulates the pancreas to produce more insulin," Lam says. Thankfully, sweet potatoes have a very low-calorie count.
Sweet potatoes are definitely a winter staple, and luckily, Best says this tasty veggie is high in fiber, which "leaves the consumer feeling fuller" and "makes them less likely to overeat at meal times and eat less between meals." And, Best explains that fiber "removes toxins from the body and keeps the bowels regular, both of which reduce inflammation and weight."
If you're looking for a quick, simple, but filling option, it doesn't get much better than some baked or roasted sweet potatoes. A great way to include sweet potatoes in your breakfast is to make them into tasty home fries with a side of eggs. Check out this recipe from Martha Stewart!
When Dr Annie Fenn’s mother Diana was diagnosed with the early stages of Alzheimer’s in 2015, the brain health expert knew what to do.
“We got rid of the processed food in her diet, replaced frozen dinners and cookies with whole foods, and watered down her wine until she was no longer drinking at all. Diet soft drinks and juice were eliminated,” says Fenn, 58, from Jackson, Wyoming.
“She enjoyed simple meals made by her caregivers such as salmon with brown rice and broccoli, almond butter on wholegrain toast and oatmeal with berries and almond milk.”
This approach is part of the MIND diet, aka the Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay, which was devised in 2015 by American researchers from Rush University Medical Centre in Chicago and Harvard School of Public Health in Boston.
It combines the Mediterranean diet with the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) eating plan, with an emphasis on the 10 most neuro-protective food groups (see below).
Dairy products, red meat and fried and processed foods are kept to a minimum, and it includes red wine.
And so it proved with Diana, who, at 87, is still living at home. “Her general health is frail but she has caregivers and is still able to do simple things like make toast, walk around at home, and sit outside on the patio in the sun and enjoy the birds,” says Fenn.
Eating a wide variety of plants, along with pulses, nuts and fish, helps protect brain health (Photo: David Malan/Getty)
It’s also a philosophy that gynaecologist-turned-chef Fenn swears by. She is the founder of the Brain Health Kitchen, the only cooking school that’s focused exclusively on brain health through food and lifestyle, although she has made her own modifications to the MIND diet.
“The BHK food groups reflect a plant-heavy version of the MIND and Mediterranean diets, with more servings of leafy greens and vegetables and fewer servings of food from animals,” she explains. “I based this on the vast amount of data that points to the brain health benefits of eating plants in reducing heart disease, especially stroke.”
None of this was known when Fenn was growing up eating boxed cereal, frozen dinners and sandwiches made with luncheon meat. Fenn only realised how much her diet was based around processed foods when she went to Spain as a 16-year-old exchange student. After returning home, she adopted the Mediterranean diet and started cooking her own meals.
Today Fenn follows a plant-heavy MIND diet and stays active with daily hiking, walking, biking, skiing, yoga or weight training. She also meditates for 12 minutes each day, barely drinks and goes alcohol-free for four months a year.
As it has long been thought that hormones play a role in Alzheimer’s, which could explain why women make up 65 per cent of current cases of dementia in the UK, Fenn took the contraceptive pill until menopause to keep her oestrogen levels stable throughout midlife and then went on HRT, which she plans to continue as long as she can.
Other brain-friendly habits include being sociable and learning new skills, such as speaking Italian.
Her two sons, aged 22 and 25, are following her example. “They cook for themselves and are building solid brain-healthy habits,” she says. “The earlier you begin eating with brain health in mind, the better – you’ll cultivate a brain that is resilient to age-related cognitive decline from all causes, especially Alzheimer’s.”
A healthy diet should contain 30 different plants each week (Photo: Oscar Wong/Getty)
The 10 Brain Health Kitchen food groups
These 10 food groups provide everything an ageing brain needs to thrive. Think of it as a brain-healthy food pyramid, with the foods to eat most at the top of the list, and the produce to be enjoyed in small amounts at the bottom.
1. Berries
95g a day
Regularly eating berries may slow down brain ageing by two-and-a-half years. Studies showed improved memory in older adults with mild cognitive impairment if berries are enjoyed daily. They have a low glycaemic index score so they’re less likely to elevate blood sugar.
Tip: Choose the most vibrant red, purple, blue, or black berries. The darker the berry, the more anthocyanins. These are important brain-boosting flavonoids that help scrub the brain of inflammatory debris.
2. Leafy greens
80g raw or 200g cooked a day
Leafy greens are the most nutrient-dense of all the vegetables. The darker the leafy green, the more nutrient-dense. Sample the wide variety, from “tender” greens like romaine lettuce, rocket and watercress to hearty greens such as kale, Swiss chard, spinach and chicory.
Tip: Buy root vegetables with their green tops. The dark leafy greens of carrots, beets, turnips, and radishes have big, earthy flavours and a high nutrient density.
3. Other vegetables
480g raw or 240g cooked a day
Vegetables provide many brain-specific nutrients, all in one fibre-rich package. Diversity is key. Aim to eat 30 or more different types of plants – mostly vegetables – each week. One-third of your veg should be cruciferous (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and bok choy). Choose one serving of colourful veg a day such as carrots, sweet potatoes and beetroot. Include alliums (garlic, onions, spring onions and leeks) frequently.
Tip: Cooked tomatoes provide 62 percent more lycopene, a potent antioxidant, than eating the same amount raw.
4. Seafood
Eat one or more 85g servings a week
Fish and seafood provide the two types of omega-3 fatty acids – DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) – that repair and build brain cells throughout life. Other key brain health nutrients in fish and seafood include selenium, vitamin D and vitamin B12, which is needed to build the myelin sheath that protects nerve cells.
Tip: Cook fish over a low indirect heat, or braise, so that it retains its brain-boosting nutrients.
5. Nuts and seeds
Eat 40g at least four times a week
A handful of nuts most days is proven to reduce your risk of having a heart attack or stroke and also keeps your memory sharp. Regular nut eaters perform better on cognitive tests, and those who eat nuts four times weekly outperform those who eat nuts just a few times a month.
Tip: Buy nuts and seeds raw since they retain more of their healthy fats and antioxidants.
6. Beans and lentils
Eat four or more 30g cooked servings a week
Beans stabilise blood sugar, lower harmful blood cholesterol and provide the type of fibre that health-promoting gut microbiota need to flourish. Bean eaters are slimmer, on average, than people who don’t eat beans, and obesity is a known risk factor for Alzheimer’s.
Tip: Tinned beans can have a high sodium content and too much salt is not part of a brain-healthy diet. Look for “no salt added” on the label or a sodium content of under 1 per cent in the nutrition facts. If you can’t find low-salt beans, rinse well before using.
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7. Whole grains
Eat a 100g cooked serving three times a day
A grain is considered whole when its three original parts are intact: bran, germ, and endosperm. Whole grains, including barley, bulgur, freekeh, rye, spelt, wheatberry, oats and brown rice, contain brain-healthy B vitamins, antioxidant vitamin E and fibre.
Tip: Refrigerate a batch of brown rice or barley for up to five days; add to soups, vegetable frittatas or eat toasted as a salad topping.
8. Meat, poultry and eggs
Eat small portions (85g) of chicken or meat up to four times each week; limit eggs based on your personal health factors
Brain-protective diets all have one thing in common: they are mostly plants. If you choose to include animal products the emphasis should be on quality and smaller amounts. If you skip this food group entirely, your brain will still thrive.
Tip: Adopt gentle cooking techniques (braising and slow cooking) to minimise advanced glycation end products (AGEs), the brain-harmful substances created during cooking.
9. Olives and olive oil
Use olive oil as your primary cooking oil and enjoy olives frequently
High-quality olive oil provides polyphenols, potent antioxidants that are part of the reason numerous studies report olive oil consumers suffer fewer heart attacks, strokes, and have lower overall rates of death from any cause. Eating the whole olive provides the same healthy fats and polyphenols as in olive oil.
Tip: Use an everyday bottle of extra-virgin olive oil for cooking and baking and a high-end one for drizzling.
10. Coffee, tea and other drinks
While water is the brain-healthiest drink of all, other choices can be a welcome part of your dietary pattern. A substantial body of science says drinking coffee (up to five cups per day) and tea is advantageous for a healthy brain and for fending off Alzheimer’s and age-related cognitive decline.
Tip: Drink coffee black and unsweetened as dairy products may deactivate the antioxidants in coffee and sugar turns it into a brain-harming beverage. Add turmeric, cinnamon or nutmeg to coffee grounds before brewing to add an anti-inflammatory boost.
Wine-Braised Chicken with Currants, Caper Berries, and Cauliflower, from ‘The Brain Kitchen’ by Annie Fenn
Wine-braised chicken with currants, caper berries and cauliflower
You can use raisins, dried blueberries or sultanas and if you can’t find caper berries (the fruit of the caper plant), use capers (the flower buds) instead.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
80g dried currants or golden raisins
240 ml boiling water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot (140g), thinly sliced
8 small boneless, skinless chicken thighs (910g total)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
240 ml dry white wine
1 medium head cauliflower (680 g), cut into 5 cm florets
1. Place the currants in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over top. Let sit until soft, about 15 minutes.
2. Warm the oil over low heat in a casserole dish. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the shallot and cook, stirring often, until starting to brown, about five minutes.
3. Season the chicken with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper. Add the chicken to the shallots and cook over medium heat until the pieces can be easily released from the bottom of the pan, about five minutes.
4. Turn the chicken over and add the wine, then the currants and their soaking water. Adjust the heat so the sauce gently bubbles at a low simmer. Add the cauliflower to the pot, and sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.
5. Stir to coat, cover, and cook at a low simmer until you can insert the tip of a knife into the largest piece of cauliflower, 20 to 25 minutes.
6. Stir in the caper berries, vinegar, pistachios, and parsley. Divide between four shallow bowls and serve hot.
Slow-Roasted Salmon with Avocado Butter from ‘The Brain Kitchen’ by Annie Fenn
Slow-roasted salmon with avocado butter
Slow-roasting salmon is not only a brain-friendlier method than cooking over higher heat, it’s practically foolproof, turning out perfectly cooked salmon every time.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
2 small fennel bulbs (230 g), thinly sliced, fronds reserved for garnish
2 cans chickpeas, drained
1 large lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed
120 ml water
60 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 teaspoon kosher salt
680g whole salmon fillet, skin-on (preferably wild caught), about 2.5cm thick (or use salmon fillets, 115g-170g portions)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
230g peas (fresh or frozen)
2 large, ripe avocados, mashed
3 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, preferably grassfed, at room temperature
2 tablespoons fresh flat leaf parsley
1 medium garlic clove, minced (about 1/2 teaspoon)
Method:
1. Set an oven rack in the centre position and preheat the oven to 150°C (130°C fan).
2. Toss the fennel, chickpeas, lemon, water, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt on a rimmed baking sheet until evenly coated, then spread into an even layer.
3. Top with the salmon, skin side down, and pour the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over top. Sprinkle the salmon with pepper and ¼ teaspoon of the salt.
4. Bake for 20 to 28 minutes, stirring in the peas after 10 minutes, until the salmon is just turning opaque.
5. Meanwhile, combine the avocados, lemon juice, butter, parsley, garlic, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt in the bowl of a food processor. Process until completely smooth. Keep in the refrigerator until ready to eat.
6. To serve, divide the salmon and vegetables between plates and spoon a tablespoon of pan sauce over top. Top each piece of fish with 2 tablespoons of avocado butter, some of the reserved fennel fronds, and a drizzle of oil.
7. Store extra avocado butter in an airtight container with a piece of parchment paper pressed onto the surface of the butter to prevent browning. It will keep for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or 3 months in the freezer.
Warm Lentil, Grapefruit and Bitter Greens Salad from ‘The Brain Kitchen’ by Annie Fenn
Warm lentil, grapefruit and bitter greens salad
Tossing the lentils with the vinaigrette while still warm helps them soak up all the bold flavours going on in this salad.
Serves: 4-6 (as a side dish)
Ingredients:
200g puy, green, or brown lentils, rinsed
1 large grapefruit
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
1 large garlic clove, minced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 small head radicchio (200 g), cored and thinly sliced
1 medium head endive (115 g), thinly sliced lengthwise
80g almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper
Flaky salt (optional)
Method:
1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and add the lentils. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook until the lentils are soft but still hold their shape, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain in a colander and transfer back to the pot.
2. While the lentils cook, cut off the stem ends of the grapefruit, then cut off the peel. Slice between the white pith and the flesh to remove the segments. Squeeze any juice left from the peels into a small cup. (You should have 1 to 2 tablespoons.) Discard the peels.
3. In a large serving bowl, use a fork to mash together the anchovies and garlic until you have a paste. Whisk in the oil, 1 tablespoon of the grapefruit juice, and the mustard, kosher salt, and red pepper flakes.
4. Add the warm lentils and toss to combine. Fold in the radicchio and endive, then top with the grapefruit segments and almonds. Drizzle with any remaining grapefruit juice and more oil, then season with black pepper and flaky salt (if using).
Coffee, Date, and Oat Bars from ‘The Brain Kitchen’ by Annie Fenn
Coffee, date and oat bars
These fig-packed chewy bars are packed with brain-healthy ingredients.
Makes 12 bars
ingredients:
Extra-virgin olive oil or olive oil cooking spray, for the pan
170g pitted dates (10 to 12 large Medjool dates)
250ml freshly brewed coffee (decaff if you prefer)
1 teaspoon orange oil, flavour, or extract
140g toasted almonds
200g rolled oats
60g almond flour or meal
1 egg
1 teaspoon kosher salt
200g dried figs, stems removed and coarsely chopped
1. Set an oven rack in the centre position and preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan). Line an 8-inch (20cm) square baking pan with parchment paper so that the edges overhang, and coat with olive oil or cooking spray.
2. Place the dates, hot coffee, and orange oil in the bowl of a food processor. Let sit for 5 minutes to soften.
3. Process on low speed until you have a mostly smooth paste, about 30 seconds. Scrape into a bowl. Place the almonds in the food processor and process on low speed until coarsely chopped, about 30 seconds.
4. Add the oats, almond flour, egg, salt, and 150g of the date puree and process until the ingredients start to come together, about 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and process for another 30 seconds.
5. Set aside 215g of the oat mixture to use as a topping and transfer the rest to the prepared pan. Press firmly using your hands to make an even crust with an edge that comes 2.5cm up the sides of the pan. Spread the remaining date puree over top and smooth into an even layer.
6. Sprinkle with the figs and the remaining oat mixture. Press the toppings firmly into the base so they adhere. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the bars are golden brown on the edges and set in the centre.
7. Let cool completely before cutting into bars. To store, wrap tightly and keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Today, a vegetarian in Singapore might be forgiven for strolling up to the counter of a pop-up curry restaurant and ordering a plate of spicy rice with chicken. Thanks to the startup Good Meat, cultivated meat — grown from the cells of a living “donor” animal — has become a way for conscientious eaters to enjoy chicken guilt-free. Soon, American diners may be able to do the same, after lab-grown chicken breast from Berkeley-based Upside Foods was cleared by the FDA.
Unlike commonly available meat substitutes like Beyond Burger, cultivated meat is made of ... well, meat. It has the exact same molecules and the exact same taste as the burger you know and love (or it will, once perfected). But instead of being harvested from a living, breathing animal — one that can feel pleasure and pain, cares for its young, and is likely more intelligent than your toddler — it’s designed in a lab and cultured in vats. The process doesn’t require killing animals or keeping them in captivity. Cells are taken from a pasture-raised animal, then grown in a nutrient-rich medium.
Cultivated meat, in other words, may allow us to consume what we crave without the moral costs.
As professors of moral philosophy, we celebrate these developments — and we think everyone who cares about animal welfare, the environment, or public health should, too. We believe most people grasp on some level that eating meat from factory farms — where the vast majority of it comes from — is wrong. But meat is a delicious, nutrient-dense food, central to many cherished cultural traditions. So we rationalize away or ignore our qualms.
Most people genuinely enjoy eating meat and our research suggests the craving leads them to justify meat consumption by underrating the psychological capacities of animals or otherwise downplaying their mistreatment. They might sense that eating meat is wrong, but in the absence of a tasty (and cheap) alternative, wishful thinking and willful ignorance help maintain the status quo. The big promise of cultivated meat is that it can not only satisfy our culinary desires but also free our conscience. Without the incentive to rationalize factory farmed meat, more and more people will be able to appreciate the moral gravity of modern animal agriculture. In other words, lab grown meat can allow us to admit to ourselves what we knew all along — that modern industrial farming is awful for animals and for the planet.
Even die-hard carnivores have difficulty stomaching the idea that animals as sensitive and smart as our dogs or cats — tens of billions of them each year — are tortured and killed. Still others balk at supporting an industry that emits approximately one-sixth of global greenhouse gases. Once viable alternatives to factory farming exist, people can more readily lean into these convictions.
A major obstacle is the fact that factory farms currently receive tens of billions in federal subsidies every year that artificially reduce the price of cheeseburgers and fried chicken, while shirking the serious environmental and public health costs. Unless we can financially level the playing field, “real” meat might remain cheap enough that some consumers still choose it over cultivated meat. After all, how much cheaper can you make a 99 cent burger?
The political power of agribusinesses will crumble only if most consumers come to view consuming factory farmed meat as akin to wearing mink pelts or watching dog fighting. Then citizens will demand that politicians cut federal subsidies, pass laws requiring humane treatment of animals, and force agribusinesses to confront the true costs of their product.
Projected shifts in demand have already motivated Tyson — the largest poultry producer in America — to invest in Upside Foods. As ethical alternatives become more economical, we hope the moral tides will shift as well, providing more support for the regulation of industrial farms, like California’s Prop 12, which passed in 2018. Such legislation will make products from factory farms more expensive, allowing cultivated meat to enjoy a more competitive price point.
Ordinarily, people think that a moral revolution must come first and then change will follow. But in many cases it’s just the opposite. Technological innovations can make it easier to do the right thing. In the 21st century, the availability of attractive electric vehicles is leading people to give up their gas-guzzling cars and admit that combustion engines should be replaced with batteries powered by renewable energy.
Likewise, if we embrace alternatives like cultivated meat and change the way we eat, more of us will be free to condemn factory farming and challenge the corporations that profit from it. We’ll lose nothing — and we’ll be protecting the planet and its inhabitants.
Victor Kumar is an assistant professor of philosophy at Boston University, director of the Mind and Morality Lab, and coauthor of A Better Ape. Josh May is an associate professor of philosophy and psychology at the University of Alabama at Birmingham and the author of Neuroethics. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.
