How to eat in line with Mother Earth - Santa Rosa Press Democrat

The first Earth Day took place on April 22, 1970. Back then, there wasn’t as much mainstream focus on our Mother Ship, especially when it came to how we ate, as there is now. We have progressed since then, but there is still a long way to go.

Scores of people think eating in a way that is environmentally responsible means giving up what they love. I think that attitude is based more on puritanical notions of pleasure as something unimportant or suspect than on commonsense approaches to diet. But it is easy to ignore the finger-waggers, make a difference and eat what you love.

Most important is to eat in alignment with the seasons and from local sources whenever possible and avoid highly processed foods.

When I was growing up, there were few, if any, out-of-season options: no apricots from Chile in January, no mealy tomatoes in April, no year-round pomegranates. Today, it takes a little more effort, as most supermarkets offer everything they can get from their distributors. Many of us no longer know what is in season when.

To shift to a seasonal diet, shop at farmers markets and farm stands. Select things grown as close to home as possible, a consideration many experts believe is more important than choosing organic.

Because the process of obtaining organic certification involves a lot of paperwork, many family farms have opted out. This is why talking to farmers is crucial. For me, if I have a choice between carrots labeled organic that come from a distance or local carrots without the designation, I choose the local ones.

This is a good place to start, a foundation you can build on, with increasing sensitivity to the health of our planet.

This traditional Italian dish is the essence of spring, both visually and on the palate. You can make it with any rice, but it’s best with one of the Italian rices used in risotto. I prefer Vialone Nano, but it’s the hardest one to find. Arborio and Carnaroli work perfectly; they are just not as delicate as the other.

Risi e Bisi (Rice and Peas with Mint and Meyer Lemon)

Makes 4 servings

4 tablespoon butter, preferably local

1 shallot, minced

1 ½ cups freshly shelled English peas, from about 2 pounds unshelled peas

Kosher salt

3 ½ cups homemade meat broth (see note below)

1 cup raw Italian rice (Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone Nano)

3 ounces (¾ cup) Estero Gold or Dry Jack, grated

Grated zest of 1 Meyer lemon

¼ cup fresh spearmint leaves, very thinly sliced

1 Meyer lemon, cut into wedges

Put the butter in a large saucepan or medium-size soup pot, set over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the shallot and sauté gently until soft and fragrant, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the peas, season generously with salt and sauté for 2 minutes.

Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the rice, stir well, cover the pan and simmer gently until the rice is tender but still al dente, about 15 minutes, stirring now and then.

Remove from the heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Taste and correct for salt.

To serve, stir in the cheese. Ladle the soup into individual bowls or soup plates and top each portion with lemon zest and mint. Garnish with a lemon wedge and enjoy right away.

Note: You can use any broth or stock in this dish. To make a simple meat broth, put a trimmed carrot, trimmed onion, a stalk of celery, one canned tomato, one small potato and 6 to 8 cups of bones and meat scraps into a pot. Cover with water by 2 inches, bring to a boil and remove any foam that forms on the surface. Partially cover the pot and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain, cool and refrigerate. When the broth is fully chilled, use a large tin spoon to remove the cap of fat. Use within 3 to 4 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

The great Marcella Hazan would have turned 97 last week. If I had to choose one mentor in the food world, she would be it. Her approach is so true, so authentic, with all of her knowledge and talent focused on making things taste really good. This dish is simple, delicious and satisfying, perfect alongside almost anything and excellent on its own, too.

Marcella Hazan’s Spinach and Chickpeas

Makes 4 to 6 Servings

1 ½ pounds fresh spinach leaves

Kosher salt

2 cups (12 ounces) cooked chickpeas (canned are fine)

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Rinse the spinach under cool running water but do not dry it. Put the spinach, with water clinging to it, in a large saucepan and add 2 tablespoons of salt.

Cover the pan, set over high heat, and cook until the spinach just begins to wilt, about 90 seconds. Remove from the heat and carefully drain off any liquid. Return the pan to the heat.

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How to eat in line with Mother Earth - Santa Rosa Press Democrat
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