I’ve spent twenty-one years day-tripping and overnighting in Napa and written a few hundred articles about this incredible food and drink County in my various editor roles the past 15 years (a few listed here). I have been most everywhere of note across this — and multiple — California Wine Countries. This means each return to this neighboring County to my SF home either leads me to new spots or revisiting longtimers with notable changes. After nights in downtown Napa, here are six standouts to eat, drink and/or stay at now.
STAY
River Terrace Inn
Location is everything when it comes to River Terrace Inn, conveniently within a few minutes walking distance of CIA at Copia, Oxbow Public Market, Napa Valley Wine Train and downtown Napa across the bridge. It also is located on the Napa River so if you have a river room towards the back, it is far quieter than its access to busy Soscol Avenue would suggest, with a walking trail behind the hotel along the river. Even better, they’re pet friendly.
Though I did not stay in the more current “luxury rooms,” the Riverside Rooms were quiet, comfortable and work friendly, with sweet staff throughout our visit. I do wish this — and all — hotels would install water stations on each floor so we could fill water bottles and stay environmentally away from plastic, but they were helpful to fill at the bar, though not the ideal scenario. Their restaurant ALBA is open daily for breakfast and some dinners. We rolled down for breakfast from chef Adam Nichol, grateful to see seasonal, local ingredients and house green juices, alongside shakshuka and chilaquiles. River Terrace is an ideal mid-range hotel in downtown Napa, walkable from most crucial spots in town, yet feeling removed enough to be peaceful.
// 1600 Soscol Avenue, Napa; www.riverterraceinn.com
EAT & DRINK
The Consummate Napa Valley Restaurant Now: Press, St. Helena
My one exception to covering only the city of Napa proper this article vs. the entire Napa Valley, is PRESS, which, since bringing on chef/partner Philip Tessier (a Le Bernardin, Per Se and French Laundry alum) in May 2020 has grown far beyond its modern steakhouse days. It should easily have a Michelin star given chef Tessier’s deliciously creative dishes and his passionate and engaging team (historically, PRESS’ wine cellar of deep vintage Napa wines rightly made national waves when Kelli White and Scott Brenner put it on the map as one of the best vintage Napa wine collections in the world). He just brought on Vincenzo Loseto (formerly Eleven Madison Park) as the new chef de cuisine.
Tessier’s sweet & sour pig ears in espelette pepper glaze remain the best I’ve ever had, alongside those at Michelin-starred Niku in SF. Recently visiting for the summer tasting menu, even an amuse bouche of sungold tomato panna cotta in hibiscus and marigold flowers wows, exuding the intensity and purity of California tomatoes. A seafood quartet of everything from oysters and caviar to abalone delights in delicate sauces and accents, while chilled carrot melon soup dotted with spruce oil, crunchy pumpernickel, horseradish and coconut is cooling, summer perfection paired with a cocktail of Monkey 47 gin, Lillet, Pernod Pastis and Peychaud’s Bitters.
Tessier’s ricotta gnudi wrapped in squash blossom leaves, swimming in parmesan consommé, has really become his “can’t miss,” signature dish, dreamily paired with depth of a 2018 Desante Old Vine Field Blend. Alaskan halibut partnered with wild ramps, creamed corn and Benton’s bacon — paired with 2013 Keplinger “Lithic” Rhone Blend from Amador County — feels both light and hearty simultaneously. A cocktail finish with dessert plays with gin, pineapple, watermelon and even a ham infusion. PRESS surprises but never gets too esoteric as not to comfort and satiate first. Tessier and team walk a fine line of pleasing a range of traveler types as well as locals and savvy Bay Area palates. And they do it with panache. Since Tessier, PRESS went from a place I appreciated most for the 1800+ wine cellar (which still rules: they just won Wine Spectator’s Grand Award, the only U.S. restaurant to receive this accolade for a regionally focused wine list) to one of my favorite restaurants in all of Napa Valley.
// 587 St. Helena Hwy South, St. Helena, pressnapavalley.com
Jewish Deli from 3 Michelin Chef: Loveski at Oxbow Market
Another winner in Napa’s bustling Oxbow Public Market, Loveski Deli was already a must-visit given that it’s from chef Christopher Kostow and wife Martina of three-Michelin The Restaurant at Meadowood (burned down in the tragic 2020 Glass Fire but set to reopen this year) and of The Charter Oak. Partnering with chef Kipp Ramsey (formerly of Farmstead) they turn out sourdough bagels from a 30-year-old Charter Oak starter, baked daily and boiled Montreal-style with a whisper of honey, served on their own or in bagel sandwiches alongside reubens, matzoh ball soup, latkes and nutella babka.
My partial youth growing up in NJ just outside NYC makes me a picky bagel critic, yet the recent renaissance in SF has finally brought a few I’d dub up there with the best, though none better than Tony Gemignani’s Toscano Brothers/Dago Bagel. Loveski bagels are very good, the sourdough and Montreal-style boil feeling more of-place than iterative of NYC, with a nice crackle to the exterior. In six flavors, including my go-to seeded everything, their house-cultured butter sure is good, but I go for schmear, and their yellow chive and fermented onion, miso vegetable or smoked salmon schmears delight.
Bagel sandwiches exude California produce perfection, like smashed avocado with chopped egg, local olive oil and nori — I added on our incomparable heirloom tomatoes in season and it was one glorious breakfast (or get the Heirloom tomato, cream cheese, olive oil, Jacobsen salt bagel sando and add on avocado). Their smoked whitefish salad is likewise fresh and bright, happily partnered with Thai chiles and horseradish cream cheese on a bagel sandwich, but also ideal on their chopped salad, which in certain bites runs way too salty but mostly is a win. So is their Reuben, not exactly a NY or LA best, but unctuous and comforting, with a smart twist of white kimchi instead of sauerkraut, oozing Swiss cheese and gochujang dressing. With plans to expand locations (SF, pretty please!), an outdoor patio and cute red stool counter seating inside make a Loveski meal a pleasant experience.
While they offer Napa’s Naysayer coffee and house white and red wine Loveski collab with the great Matthiasson, it’s hard to resist making a pairing of a frozé made with quality rosé (I choose the Champagne added version), served in a stemmed wine glass at the stylish pink-and-tan Bar Lucia counter across from Loveski.
// 610 1st Street, Napa; www.loveskideli.com
Napa’s Tiki Cocktail Oasis: Wilfred’s Lounge
It’s about time Napa had a tiki bar. And not just any tiki bar but a restaurant with food from chef Max Ackerman (which I didn’t get to try on my initial visit). Wilfred’s Lounge is a tiki haven from tiki fans and father-son duo John and Nat Komes, who own Flora Springs Winery and have family roots in Hawaii. When opening in November 2021, they wisely brought on Daniel “Doc” Parks, a Trader Vic’s alum, who established magical San Francisco tiki destinations, Pagan Idol and Zombie Village, and lead bartender Joel Pfeifle, who has long run bars in Napa Valley at Harvest Table and beyond. This means there is a savvy 17 cocktail illustrated menu, a deep rum collection and delicious volcano bowls, including a standout cocktail in its own right, The Waikiki Wipeout (Jamaican rum, navy strength rum, orange, lime, Napa’s own Perfect Purée guava and passionfruit and a little hit of scotch bonnet chilies).
A couple highlights on the extensive menu include the Napa Sour (pisco, mezcal, pink peppercorn, Flora Springs Sauvignon Blanc simple syrup and Merlot float) and the crowd-pleasing Maximum Aloha, a blend of Tanduay Philippines rum and Jamaican Rum Fire overproof rum that balance the tropical sweetness with funk and body. The rums are infused with strawberry and cinnamon, brightened with prickly pear, hibiscus and lemon, creamy with a salty-sweet house coconut banana whip on top.
The two-floored space holds multi-rooms, from an intimate bar, complete with pirate-led thunderstorms (!), a dining room and balcony overlooking the Napa River and rooftop “poop deck” with even broader views. A tiki statue and gorgeous Hawaiian islands table are carved by famed tiki artist Billy Crud, with ceiling and a bamboo-wrapped bar designed by “Bamboo” Ben Bassham. This is a proper tropical escape, the kind of destination bar that draws in tiki fans, but offers fun for all. It’s a welcome change of pace from the umpteenth Napa wine bar/tasting room.
// 967 First Street, Napa; https://wilfredslounge.com
Spot-On Sandos & Meats: Contimo
Selling their sandwiches in four different locations since 2018, including CIA at Copia, Contimo opened a sunny, little order-at-the-counter sandwich shop downtown in pandemic in 2020, with parklet, biscuit sandwiches for breakfast and Zapp’s potato chips from New Orleans. In fact, a subtle New Orleans, or rather general Southern tinge peeks out in elements from biscuits to the mortadella sandwich. I can’t resist the pimento cheese sandwich amped up with aged Oregon cheddar, roasted sweet peppers, urfa chilies, herb mayonnaise, tomatoes and shredded lettuce. There are juicy house sausages, meats and curated gourmet groceries from coffee beans to hot sauce. Co-owners Ryan Harris and Kevin Folan met at the Fatted Calf and have studied with Allan Benton of Benton’s Country Hams (hence the house charcuterie and meats focus). They also worked in fine dining on both coasts at the likes of The Restaurant at Meadowood and Per Se. Contimo is a far cry from fine dining, but quality and attention to detail pervade this sandwich shop. Take their whole wheat, dark chocolate chip cookies with Anson Mills stone cut oats and sea salt to-go.
// 950 Randolph Street, Napa; https://contimonapa.com
Vegan & Plant-Based Sandos: The Dutch Door
Though I definitely preferred my sandwiches at Contimo next door, I’d like to try more at tiny, appealing Dutch Door. Pennington Provisions private chef Brent Pennington and co-owner Mike Casey opened this takeout window with sidewalk parklet in 2019, with fast casual quality in sandwiches and bowls, heavy on plant-based and vegan though there are meats here, too. Sourcing sustainable and organic ingredients — and, thank God, using zero plastic — are all wins here, even if my panko-fried Korean fried chicken sando was bland compared to dozens of fried chicken sandwiches I’ve had in the last couple years alone (it could have used more gochujang sauce, Napa cabbage kimchi and flavor in general).
// 1245 1st Street, Napa; www.thedutchdoornapa.com
Where to Eat, Drink & Stay in Downtown Napa Now - thebolditalic
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